DOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PLEASE NOTE: Failure to install this unit in

accordance with these instructions may void any

manufacturer’s warranty.

Required Tools & Materials

• level (for sub-sill only)

• shims

• hammer

• screw gun

• #2 Flat and Phillips screwdrivers

• acrylic caulk

• low-expansion foam (or fibreglass) insulation

• supplied with door unit: 7 screws (#8 wood

screws, 3" length) and 4 screws (#8 wood

screws, 13.8" length for select units only)

Important Point: Although all steps are critical,

this symbol identifies procedures requiring extra

attention.

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Check Your Work: This symbol identifies when

the work should be checked for correctness

before continuing with installation.

Step 1: Prepare Rough Opening

Figure 1: A clean, level, solid sub-sill is essential to successful

installation.

Ensure that the following conditions are met:

• the rough opening (RO) is ideally 1" wider and 1.2"

taller than the outside frame dimensions of the door

system

• the RO is plumb, square and level

• the old frame has been completely removed in retrofit

installation

• the floor area is clean, dry and level

• the existing sub-sill is at least 6" deep for 4 9.16" frames

and at least 8" deep for 6 9.16" frames.

Because a solid, level sub-sill is absolutely essential for

proper door system installation, do not proceed with the

installation until the sub-sill is both solid and level.

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Figure 2: Caulk is applied in three parallel lines running the

width of the sill.

Apply three 1.4" lines of caulk (acrylic caulk is recommended)

along the length of the sub-sill, the first line starting approximately

1" from the inside edge. The lines should be about 1" apart.

Step 3: Remove Packaging Materials

Figure 3: Do not remove the black skid plate located along the

bottom of the door.

Remove all packaging materials such as nails, staples and screws.

Do not remove the black skid plate because it allows the

door to slide easily and acts as a permanent rot and

moisture barrier (Figure 3).

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Make sure the door swings freely in the frame.

Step 4: Place Door in Rough Opening

Figure 4: Place the sill in the opening first and then tilt the door

up into the opening.

Figures 5 and 6: The brick mould rests up against exterior

siding or slides into the opening of exterior brick.

Stand on the outside of the doorway. With the door facing out, tilt

the door back toward the outside. Place the sill in the RO and tilt

the door up and into the opening (Figure 4). The brick mould

should rest up against the siding of the exterior wall (Figure 5)

and should slide into the RO of a brick home (Figure 6).

Do not leave the door wide open during installation. The

+ weight of the door may cause it to fall and cause injury.

Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten

Step 5A: For single doors Step 5B: For double doors and side-hinged patio doors with astragals

Figure 10: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the

correct sequence.

Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the

opening. Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit

(Points A in Figure 10). This will keep the door centered and

the frame tight against the sill. Shim the top of the door on the

latch side (Point B in Figure 10). Install shims until there is

a consistent 1.8" gap between the top of the door slab and the

frame header (as seen from the inside).

Shim the hinge-side of the frame (Point C in Figure 10). This will

hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door

should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.

With the door closed and from the inside shim directly behind

the vacant hinge screw hole in each hinge (Points D in Figure 10)

until there is a consistent 1.8" gap between the hinge-side jamb and

the door slab edge along the entire height of the door. There

should be a 1.8" gap between the latch-side jamb and the door slab

edge at the top and bottom of the door only. Drive one of the

supplied 3" installation screws through the vacant hole in each

hinge, through the jamb, shims and into the stud (Figure 9).

Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points E in Figure 10)

approximately 8" from the top and bottom of the frame. Install

shims until there is an even 1.8" gap between the jamb and the

edge of the door slab along the whole length of the door. Shim

behind the latch-side jamb (Points F in Figure 7) just above and

below the dead bolt hole, maintaining the 1.8" gap (Figure 12).

Pull the weatherstripping away from the jamb (Points E on

Figure 10) and screw the supplied 3" installation screws through

the jamb and shims and into the stud (Figure 13).

Figure 14: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the

correct sequence.

Figure 16: The gap between the door slabs and the head is not

evenly aligned.

Figure 17: The gap between the door slabs and the head is

evenly aligned.

Figure 15: Correct sagging until the flush bolt slides freely into

the pre-drilled hole in the head.

Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the

opening. Shim tightly at the bottom of the unit (Points A in

Figure 14). This will keep the door centered and the frame

tight against the sill. Shim the top of the frame (at Points B in

Figure 14). Install shims until there is a 1.8" gap between the

top of the door slabs and the frame header.

Standing on the inside, shim behind each of the vacant hinge

screw holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating

door (Points E in Figure 14) until there is a consistent 1.8" gap

along the entire height of the door between the operating door

and the astragal attached to the passive door. There should also

be a 1.8" gap between the top of each door slab and the header.

Shim behind the vacant hinge screw holes in each of the center

hinges (Points F in Figure 14) and secure using the supplied 3"

installation screws.

With full-length glass inserts, the door slabs may sag toward the

center. This is normal. To correct sagging, align the flush bolts

on the fixed door with the pre-drilled holes in the header and

sill. Shim tightly behind the vacant hinge screw hole in the

bottom hinge (Point C in Figure 14) until the lower flush bolt

slides freely into the pre-drilled hole in the sill. Secure the door

by driving a supplied 3" installation screw through the hinge and

jamb and into the stud. If the flush bolt does not slide freely,

loosen the screw, shim more tightly and then tighten the screw.

Shim behind the vacant hinge screw hole in the top hinge

(Point D in Figure 14) to align the top flush bolt with the

factory pre-drilled hole in the header (Figure 15). Secure with

the supplied 3" installation screw supplied, through the hinge,

jamb and into the stud.

Figure 13: Install screws underneath the weatherstripping.

Step 5A: For single doors Step 5A: For single doors

From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the

frame is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this

check that the magnetic weatherstripping on the latch side

is evenly compressed along the entire height of the door

slab without any pinching or gaps (see Figures 7 and 8).

When the shims are properly installed, the frame should

not move or twist at all when the screws are tightened and

counter-sunk thereby maintaining the 1.8" gap. If there is

any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter to

maintain the 1.8" gap, then re-tighten the screws.

Step 5B: For double doors and side-hinged patio doors with astragals

From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame

is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this check that

the magnetic weatherstripping on the astragal side is evenly

compressed along the entire height of the door slab without any

pinching or gaps (see Figures 7 and 8).

Using the supplied 3" installation screws, drive a screw through

the vacant holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating

door (Points E in Figure 14), through the jambs and into the stud.

Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten

Three Installation Types

B: double door side-hinged patio door

C: center-hinged patio doors door with two sidelites

For all door types, it is essential that the frame is in a

straight vertical plane and is not twisted. Check alignment

using this method: Stand on the outside of the door. Check

that the weatherstripping on the latch (or astragal) side is

evenly compressed along the entire height of the door slab

without any pinching or gaps (Figures 7 and 8).

Figures 7 and 8: The weatherstripping on these doors is not

evenly compressed.

Figure 9: Screws are installed through the jamb, shims and into

the stud.

Figure 11: Proper position of shims at the bottom of the door

(Points A).

Figure 12: Shims are placed above and below the dead bolt

hole.

Step 2: Caulk the Sub-Sill

sidelite on latch side sidelite on hinge side

A: single door

Instructions vary according to door type. Confirm which door

type is being installed.

For single doors, use Step 5A. For double doors and side-hinged

patio doors with astragals, use Step 5B. For center-hinged patio

doors and doors with sidelites, use Step 5C.

Information Panel

B

E

FF

E

A

C

D

D

D

A

Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten

B

E

F

E

A

C

D

A

B

F

How to Plumb the Door

How to Fasten the Door

When shims are properly installed, the frame should

not move or twist when the screws are tightened and

counter-sunk, thus maintaining the 1.8" gap. If there is

any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter to

maintain the 1.8" gap, then retighten the screws.

After shimming, the door is fastened to the studs by installing

screws through the jambs, shims and into the stud (Figure 9).

Ensure that there is an even gap across the top of the door slab

(as seen from the inside).

Proceed to Step 6.

Shim above the header on the passive door side of the astragal

pin to prevent the header from bowing (Figures 16 and 17).

Proceed to Step 6.